Kyiv, Ukraine Solo Travel Guide: My Love Letter to This Beautiful Country
Kyiv will always hold a special place in my heart.
Let’s rewind to December 2018. I spent Boxing Day in a beautiful house in the heart of Oxfordshire. Nope, not with my family or my ex-boyfriend’s, but with his baby mama’s clan. It was a collision of worlds, but her family’s welcoming attitude made the good vibes override thoughts of, “well, shit… this is awks.”
Later that evening, I had the chance to meet a dear friend of the family. What an absolute firecracker! And of course, I was drawn to her immediately. Hailing from Ukraine herself, her enthusiasm grew when I told her I planned to visit Kyiv solo in a couple of weeks. She was curious as to why I’d go alone, and I explained that the timing didn’t work out with my ex, who we will call Big Poppa. I felt it was important to go and discover the places I’d always found so fascinating.
Looking back, booking that trip to Kyiv in the dead of winter, right around my wedding anniversary no less, was one of the most pivotal decisions of my life. I knew I was over waiting for adventure to find me. I was ready to go out and chase it, to immerse myself in moments that made my heart skip a beat.
That friend was overjoyed when I told her about my plans, her pride sparkling brighter than the Christmas lights. “You’re going to have the best time in Kyiv,” she said. And I did, in spades. A few months later, Big Poppa and I called it quits after a rather robust disagreement in Brno, and I never had the chance to tell her how much that trip meant to me. But maybe this post will find its way to her one day.
It’s been many years since I was last in Kyiv, and three since the Russian invasion of Ukraine. While so much has changed, I know the resilience of Ukrainians will see the capital bounce back. And when it does, I hope you get the chance to experience it with the same love and joy I felt during my time there.
Can I go to Kyiv right now?
Both the Department of State and FCDO advise against all travel to Ukraine at the moment, including Kyiv. Plus, most of the airspace is restricted so there are no flights between the UK and Kyiv or any neighbouring airports in Ukraine. But, as soon as we can, I’ll be back and posting the details here.
MaNNa Boutique Hotel in Kyiv, Ukraine
What are some of the best boutique hotels in Kyiv?
When I visited Kyiv, I stayed at the MaNNa Boutique Hotel in the Podilskyj district and absolutely adored this stylish hideaway in the centre of the city.
Additional boutique hotels around Kyiv:
Pokrovska St 9, Kyiv, 04070
34A, Bogdana Khmelnytskogo street, Kyiv, 1030
Konstantinovskaya, 11, Kyiv, 4071
And, while not a boutique hotel, I’ve heard wonderful things about the Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv and this five-star hotel's gorgeous views of the river.
What are some of the best things to do in Kyiv?
Ukraine’s capital is a thoroughly vibrant place and has something on tap for everyone.
I was only there for a few days, but between a snowstorm and my questionable choice of footwear (Chelsea boots were a no-no), I initially spent more time in the city’s malls (shrines to shopping, really) than I’d planned. While I’m no stranger to sequins, pearls, and anything that looks like it belongs in Liberace’s wardrobe, one thing to know about me is that I thrive on duality. Enter my love for urbex and dark tourism.
What’s urbex, you ask? Short for urban exploration, it’s all about discovering abandoned or off-limits manmade structures. They say nothing beats the first time, and when it comes to crawling through old Soviet-era bunkers, I have to agree. Read more about that urbex adventure here (this post coming later this week).
In addition to crawling around the city’s old waterways and scoring a pair of metallic silver Stan Smiths at TSUM, Kyiv is best discovered on foot. There are countless galleries and mid-century architectural gems to capture on your Insta, plus more pastel-hued churches than flavours at Baskin Robbins.
When it’s time for a break, stop by one of the city’s many culinary hot spots (listed below). Think cool and sexy, but with properly delicious dishes, not infused cucumber air with a garnish of seaweed. If you’re after something more low-key, TSUM, a massive department store, boasts an impressive food court where you can recharge before heading back out into the city.
Fish&Pussycat Sushi Bar and BAO Modern Chinese Cuisine in Kyiv
The Best Restaurants in Kyiv
One of the most unexpected delights of the capital was its culinary and cocktail scene. I applaud vegan solo travelers for their ability to meal plan before adventures, but I don’t have that kind of dedication. So when a city offers plenty of veggie and fish options, it always wins points in my book. I tend to default to Asian cuisine, but with so many delicious spots to choose from in Kyiv, I never felt like I was missing out.
Italian
Velyka Vasylkivska St, 21, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01004
Anchored in the centre of the city, Under Wonder could easily rely on its proximity, but instead this charming spot serves up delicious Italian dishes and oodles of charm. Picture white tablecloths, candelabras tucked in dark corners, and the sweet sounds of jazz in the background.
This meal still stands out all these years later because it was one of the first times I truly embraced dining solo in a foreign country during dinnertime. No one stared, no one snickered, and all that ridiculous buildup in my head? Completely unnecessary.
Steak and Asian Fusion
Vozdvyzhens'ka St, 10б, Kyiv, Ukraine, 004071
A steakhouse with a decidedly Asian flair, this fusion spot is perfect for warming up with wok dishes such as glass noodles with seafood or eggplant with tiger prawns. Bring your book and tuck into your pages in between taking pauses to enjoy the locals partaking in lively conversations.
Sushi and Japanese
Baseina St, 5Б, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01004
Chinese
Mechnykova St, 14/1, Kyiv, Ukraine, 01133
S34 Cocktails & Haircut in Kyiv, Ukraine
Cocktail Bars in Kyiv
Vozdvyzhens'ka St, 42, Kyiv, Ukraine, 04071
This quote from the venue’s Instagram brilliantly sums up the vibe in this effortlessly cool cocktail lounge that doubles as a barber shop. Yep, you heard me right. “This Friday is about cocktails that speak louder than words and the comfort that can be found in the walls of s34.”
Shota Rustaveli St, 12, Kyiv, Ukraine, 02000
Located in the Hotelʹ Nelli
